#21
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Quote:
Hopefully this will be useful to somebody... |
#22
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Here's a snip from the .pdf...
Enjoy! OL J R
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#23
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Gemini Window challenge
I struggled with the windows as well, but here are results. I ended up testing methods for making the windows on another old nosecone I had . If you have any questions about the Capsule details and materials used on the nosecone or Titan itself please ask.
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NAR # 91740SR C.R.A.S.H. - NAR Section #482 SAM Member #0153 "I said Lunch, not Launch!" - Far Out Space Nuts |
#24
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Here's my 1/35 Titan II GLV, nearing completion. I plan on grinding off some paint and epoxying on clear fins.
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Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
#25
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aeppel_cpm,
Is that your only launch lug near the top? I hope you have another farther down the tube. This kit lends itself to misfortune to have only one engine fire now and then. If the motor farther away from the launch rod fires only you may incur rod whip and with that single lug it could prematurely ark over and nose dive. I have experienced single motor fires and fortunately it does get high enough on a C6-3 for the chute to deploy, but just barely. That is assuming you get no rod whip or vectoring before it leaves the pad. The original kit used long launch lugs as the main stringer. I take it you are not able to use a fin can based on the dowels you have used on this kit. Well, there are ideas on the forums on how to attach fins without a fin can, but usually implemented prior to painting. I hope you can protect the nice work you have completed. I recommend reinforcing the engine bells. they hit the ground first. If you use clay epoxy, it shapes nicely into the gap between the engine retainer and your engine bells. It will significantly strengthen without adding a lot of weight. Good Luck!
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NAR # 91740SR C.R.A.S.H. - NAR Section #482 SAM Member #0153 "I said Lunch, not Launch!" - Far Out Space Nuts |
#26
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The entire length of the lines on the other side of the model is tubing sized for 1/4" rod. But that long length has enough friction that I'm going to test 3/16" rod, and if that seems too floppy, I'll put on rail guides.
The nozzle space on mine will be filled with Estes 24mm retainer - they just fit inside the Baby Bertha nosecones that got chopped up to make my nozzles. Thanks for the tips. I've still got a ways to go to make it flyable!
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Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
#27
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Fins going on. Two gave me trouble. I glued the wrong edge down and got epoxy fingerprints on them fixing my mistake.
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Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
#28
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Quote:
That jig made of the ruler and spring clips is darned clever. I'm stealing that for my next build with clear fins.
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A dark night in a city that knows how to keep its secrets. But high above the quiet streets on the 12th floor of the Acme Building, one man is still trying to find the answers to life's persistent questions. Guy Noir, Private Eye. Fox Valley Rocketeers: http://www.foxvalleyrocketeers.org |
#29
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I learned it in a Wildman V2 build. It works better with slot and tab construction- but worked with 5 min epoxy on the surface this time.
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Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
#30
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On the pad for its first flight. Unfortunately, only 1 of the D12s lit. The other turned out to have a shorted igniter. Installation problem :-(
Only popped a fin loose - so we'll try again next launch.
__________________
Charles McGonegal Ciderwright AEppelTreow Winery & Distillery Ad Astra Tabernamque! |
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