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  #1  
Old 07-04-2020, 06:18 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Working on A Honest John

Working on a little project I have. You'll soon see.

Mike

Last edited by mbauer : 09-12-2021 at 08:40 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2020, 12:30 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Can anyone please tell me the outside diameter in inches of the C size engine mount, and the D size? Need to adjust the internal tube so that either can be fitted.

Mike
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2020, 03:50 PM
dannymrmissile dannymrmissile is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbauer
Can anyone please tell me the outside diameter in inches of the C size engine mount, and the D size? Need to adjust the internal tube so that either can be fitted.

Mike

Hi. Not sure which kit version you’re working on here. The BT-60 kit simply uses a standard 24Mm mount, or the OD of the BT is 1.637. Not sure of ID. Length can vary depending on using D or E engine. The others are from the BT-50 tube and 0.976 OD. ,,, or 18MM standard engine mount. Does this help ? I’ve modified Many types of engine mounts,, even using outside engine hooks to convert a Scrambler from a 3 Engine 18 MM cluster to a single D 24 Mm mount,,, ( think I still have it !). Perhaps I can be of further help. Let me know. Dan. PS, yup, here it is....pics coming.
Just for fun......
Here’s pics. I built this in the early 70s, modified it later. Used makeshift parts.
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  #4  
Old 07-06-2020, 01:03 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannymrmissile
Hi. Not sure which kit version you’re working on here. The BT-60 kit simply uses a standard 24Mm mount, or the OD of the BT is 1.637. Not sure of ID. Length can vary depending on using D or E engine. The others are from the BT-50 tube and 0.976 OD. ,,, or 18MM standard engine mount. Does this help ? I’ve modified Many types of engine mounts,, even using outside engine hooks to convert a Scrambler from a 3 Engine 18 MM cluster to a single D 24 Mm mount,,, ( think I still have it !). Perhaps I can be of further help. Let me know. Dan. PS, yup, here it is....pics coming.
Just for fun......
Here’s pics. I built this in the early 70s, modified it later. Used makeshift parts.


It does for the BT-60. In my old stash found some BT-50. Thank you for the information.

Getting ready to add a letter size Honest john that when built will be approx: 30" tall, based on the BT-50.


Mike
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2020, 01:09 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default 1st Try Designing C-Size Rocket 4th of July Colors

This is my first attempt at converting a stomp rocket to an Estes size C engine.

I've printed one and plan to post photos as I build it.

PDF file attached for the rocket, be sure to print at 100% or full size to get it to fit properly. You can substitute a BT-50 tube for the internal cardstock tube; remember to mark for the former bulkhead locations. Use Index 110 lb [198.9 gsm] cardstock only!

Honest John is painted in 4th of July colors. Didn't think of this until late in the day on the 4th.

Just save the PDF to your computer. Rocket when built will be 30" tall. Will need to use 3/32" basswood for the stabilizer fin pattern provided.

PDF conversion from AutoCAD to PDF changed color of Red And Blue, they should be darker...I'll work on that.

Mike
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Last edited by mbauer : 07-06-2020 at 01:27 AM.
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2020, 03:47 AM
dannymrmissile dannymrmissile is offline
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You’re welcome. Contact me any time. Glad to help. Dan.
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2020, 02:18 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Cardstock Honest John Build Construction Photos/Sequence

Hello Everyone,

I took several photos while building the Honest John with the 4th of July colors. The PDF drawing posted above has a few graphic errors that will be fixed, once this series of build photos have been posted.

Main issue is the 7-red stripes on the fuselage. At the glue seam two are combined into one. This makes them look wider, tried a couple of different options, but ended up too many white stripes. Decide I will create a gold colored border to split them.

Part fit is good so not going to need any changes for the pieces.

Below is the first construction photo. Has a few of the tools, parts after cutting them out, and the balsa fins. The original PDF says to use 3/32" Balsa, this has been changed to 1/16" for the construction.

The outer covering of cardstock gives the combination lots of strength. So, 1/16" thick will work!

Please note in the photo on the far left there is a view of my empressor that is used to score fold lines, it has a small ball on the end. You can use the back edge of a kitchen butter knife, or go to an Art Supply store and buy an Art Embosser with a wood handle and balls at the ends. Fiskars has something similar you can sometimes find at Walmart

This rocket is 39" tall instead of the 30" in the PDF above, it needs printed on 11x17 size cardstock. I shrank it down to the 30" so it would fit the letter size 8.5"x11" cardstock that is available at the big box stores.
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  #8  
Old 07-12-2020, 02:25 PM
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Default Cutting/Trimming the Nosecone Collar

Photo shows the nosecone collar Part D, that slides onto the Rocket body/fuselage. It is slip on so that when the parachute charge does its thing, the nosecone hopefully will part and the parachute deploys....

Viola; the empressor made this photo as well. Note uncut nosecone part in upper left of photo. All 50-stars are on the nosecone/warhead section.

I usually cut all of the slants on one side for each tab, then a rotation of the nosecone to cut the other side, all the little scrap pieces then can be cleaned up at one time by sweeping into a trash can.
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  #9  
Old 07-12-2020, 02:41 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Inner Support/Parachute Gas Tube

Working on the Inner Support Tube. This is the tube you can use a B-50 tube for, just make sure to mark for the bulkhead locations. It is in two pieces that need glued together before rolling. You can see the black lines where the bulkheads go, the circle and writing will be covered up, they are notes to myself when designing to verify correct size.

Notes:
1) Note there are Three knives in this photo. Old blue Fiskars is comfortable, best hobby knife I've ever used. My son borrowed it for his leather working hobby. After not being able to find it, asked him about it. He confessed, but needed it for a project.

I went shopping for a new one. All I could find in the local big box store was the orange and white one with the funky fold and bend tail, that holds the blade in the front. I stabbed myself three times trying to change the blade. Piece of crap, it doesn't hold my preferred brand of blades, which are not X-acto brand but still size 11 with a different point.

Then I found some orange Fiskars on eBay, I bought three, one for my son and two back-ups for me. They are being replaced by the dangerous one mentioned. My son returned my old favorite blue, which has been in use for several years, seems like an old buddy from all the projects we've completed. Glad he returned it in time for this one.

The Fiskars rotary cutter is great for the long cuts needed for rockets, best cutter to use, plus the knife blades stay sharper longer not having to cut the length. Notice that I have a plastic quilting ruler, it is 1/8" thick helps with guiding knives and the rotary cutter, keeping them vertical.

On the bottom side used 3M 77 spray glue to mount a non-slip kitchen drawer mat. Helps to hold when doing the long cuts, ruler stays put with a little pressure. You can see the tan pattern of the mat through the clear plastic.

Glue applicator of choice is the Monoject 412 I bought on eBay. Easy to apply the exact amount of glue needed in long runs for the fuselage construction. Dentists use this to irrigate debris when cleaning teeth.

Two photos now: Before gluing/After glued
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  #10  
Old 07-12-2020, 02:52 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Rocket Body/Fuselage Shell Glued

Photo of the two piece fuselage shell is glued.

I start on the upper corner where they meet, align and then make sure the top piece aligns with the glue tab line, with all of these stripes, big help on keeping alignment correct.

Press hard and keep running fingers/hand back and forth along the whole joint/connection to get glue forced into cardstock fibers. Not good if this falls apart during flight! Lots of pressure better than not enough!!!

Same for al gluing connections, press hard to force glue into cardstock fibers and then hold, a little glue is better than lots, you will be holding forever with too much glue: added danger of too much glue is is cardstock warping. A little glue goes a long way, and is quicker to build removing lots of holding together time.
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