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  #51  
Old 03-13-2022, 09:27 AM
ghrocketman's Avatar
ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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That Ryobi blower is now on my "must get" tool list. The nearest Home Depot is about 300 yards away from my home.
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  #52  
Old 03-13-2022, 10:10 AM
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jeffyjeep jeffyjeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEC
That inflator/blower looks like a handy tool. And fortunately, I'm already well into the Ryobi 18V "ecosystem" so I already have the batteries and chargers (several).

Gotta go back and read the thread.


Yes, I already had a butt-load of batteries and chargers so I had to buy the tool only. IIRC it was less than $30 (tool only.)
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  #53  
Old 03-13-2022, 10:22 AM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Loc-tite Red thread lock is only semi-permanent. It can be loosened for removal with heat.
Pretty sure that Loc-Tite GREEN (uncommon) is the one that resists all attempts of removal.
I generally use blue for all my RC stuff when needed, except on engine parts. Those I use Red.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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  #54  
Old 03-15-2022, 08:19 AM
PaulK PaulK is offline
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Location: WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
and..............voila! Tres fini! ('Tish! That was French!)<snip>Thanks for watching!
Nice detailed build notes - it turned out great! I look forward to hearing the first flight report. Oh, wait, I see you're going to sell this one.

I'm now motivated to dust mine off and fly her again - it was always enjoyable to watch. I'll be less worried about it gliding away now that the Semroc kit is available. The Estes kits have been selling for around $100.
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  #55  
Old 12-16-2023, 12:20 PM
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bernomatic bernomatic is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
KIT CORRECTION!!

In steps 1 and 2 of the instructions it states to make a pencil mark at 1/2" from one end of the ST-5 stuffer tube and then glue the TB-7 thrust blocks onto the end of the tube so that one block is registered to the end and the other is at the 1/2' mark. This would be OK if the thrust blacks were actually wound paper centering rings that would be approx. 3/16" long. But the thrust blocks included in the kit are actually laser cut from 3/32" plywood and therefore the space between the rings is not narrow enough for both thrust blocks to contact the inside of the engine mount tube when it stops at the engine hook forward bend.

I discovered this too late, and rather than remaking the stuffer tube assembly from my own parts I slit a CR 5/20 and glued it between the (2) thrust blocks. After the glue of the added CR set I epoxied the assembly into the front of the engine mount tube. Before the epoxy could set I used the 1/2" aluminum angle to draw parallel guide lines on the stuffer tube so as the epoxy hardened I can sight the squareness of the stuffer tube in relation to the engine mount tube.

After the stuffer tube is permanently mounted and aligned into the forward end of the engine mount tube (and registered against the forward bend of the engine hook) I enrobe the joint of the stuffer tube to the engine mount tube with epoxy.

TBC


I just bought this kit and am starting to build it.

I was wondering if there was any reason given for the over complication of the stuffer tube assembly? I know the smaller tube will give a greater compression to the ejection charge, but with the Estes power blast ejection charges, is that really an issue? When i built my original kit back in the 70's, I never had an issue with ejection and transformation to glider mode.
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