#11
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While I despise 5 minute epoxy for anything where high strength is needed, for this application it is great.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC ! |
#12
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I use epoxy--AFTER roughing up the plastic to give it "tooth".
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#13
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Yep, whatever epoxy you happen to have laying around, as long as knock the sheen off the plastic like Jeff mentioned. I'd still rather use something longer than 5 minute, if for no other reason than it usually stinks worse.
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I love sanding. |
#14
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If you like horrid smells, you might want to send ghrocketman your address. From some of his posts over the years, I think he could fix you up.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#15
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I'll pass, but somebody ran over a skunk down the road from the house. I can box it up and get it to him at near perfect timing for max rank and liquification. I just need to know soon enough to snag it from the clutches of the buzzards.
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I love sanding. |
#16
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I personally don't like horrific aromas, but I DO like unleashing them on OTHERS.
Watching another person react to a hideous reek is PRICELESS. There is a product called USSBMO to test deodorants/odor dissipators. That acronym stands for United States Standard Bathroom Mal Odor. It is a scent that combines the worst of Sun-Fermented Fecal Matter, Rotting Corpse, Reeking FEET, Kraut/KimChee, and Stinky Cheese.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC ! |
#17
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When I did the "Make it, Take it" kits from Estes with the Scouts...
I had them use both Testors for plastic and the green one for wood/paper & metal. I had them put the plastic cement on the fin can, and the green on the inside of the BT. Had them twist it so the glues melded together. Never had a problem, and them young boys were pretty rough on them rockets. I've used this method myself for years, and have never had a problem with the joint coming apart. You can also use Epoxy, which I used on the Tail Cone of one of my Bull Pup 12D's because the Testors I had hardened in the tube. And there is no place to get it around here. I have to order it online. |
#18
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Quote:
I too normally use epoxy - I use 15 minute for almost everything I epoxy unless I need extra cure time for some reason in which case I'll use 30 minute. Any reason to use Fabri-Tac instead of epoxy? |
#19
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I'm not Chris but I'll answer you, Tim. No mixing and no waste, easier (a little) cleanup, and a more flexible (and therefore resilient) bond are reasons why I use Foam-Tac or Fabri-Tac for those sorts of joints.
Since i made my post in this thread in February, I have used Fabri-Tac as well as Foam-Tac....with similar results and have now gone in that direction over the Formula 560 I posted about then for most applications. Related to this, I put all the wraps on my Estes 2157 Saturn V with Foam-Tac and boy was that a less nerve-wracking and far less messy process than the 3M77 spray approach. Of course that's a different problem than that posed in the OP. I expect Foam- or Fabri-Tac weigh less in these applications than any epoxy as well.
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Bernard Cawley NAR 89040 L1 - Life Member SAM 0061 AMA 42160 KG7AIE |
#20
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Any idea where they keep the stuff in Hobby Lobby? I've spent more time than I'd like to admit searching H-L for specific items... |
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