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  #51  
Old 12-08-2019, 06:51 AM
PaulK PaulK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5x7
Great combo and great news, did you use the stock qjet igniter?
Stock Q-Jet igniters, and MJG BP starters for the Estes motors.

Your cloning of these motor mounts tops the charts on complexity!
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  #52  
Old 12-08-2019, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulK
Stock Q-Jet igniters, and MJG BP starters for the Estes motors.

Your cloning of these motor mounts tops the charts on complexity!


Good info, thanks. Also I edited post 50 adding a centering ring to the 24mm mount.
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  #53  
Old 12-08-2019, 02:25 PM
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I gotta ask, what motor (s) will you fly it on first ?
I'd probably go with a RMS24 E28T or F24W
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  #54  
Old 12-08-2019, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
I gotta ask, what motor (s) will you fly it on first ?
I'd probably go with a RMS24 E28T or F24W


Probably 4 D16-6, just love that quad mount. Another possibility results from Hobbylinc putting Aerotech 18-20 cases on sale for $15 a few months ago. I got an order in but the went backordered. They finally delivered the last of two cases last week so now I have four, so D24s would be a ride. I also got many F39s when a hobby shop closed, it would be very nice on that but the quad first.
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  #55  
Old 12-09-2019, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5x7
Probably 4 D16-6, just love that quad mount. Another possibility results from Hobbylinc putting Aerotech 18-20 cases on sale for $15 a few months ago. I got an order in but the went backordered. They finally delivered the last of two cases last week so now I have four, so D24s would be a ride. I also got many F39s when a hobby shop closed, it would be very nice on that but the quad first.
Hoo boy, with those large fins, the equivalent of an F96 might be a bit much... 4xC6-3 makes for a good flight. Most I've flown mine on was an F27, it got up uncomfortably high for our field. The BP E16/F15 work well too, but on a calmer day.
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  #56  
Old 12-09-2019, 09:49 PM
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I LIKE the idea of the 4xD24T cluster.
A REAL kick off the pad. A mix of 2xD24T and 2xD16 SU might be interesting too.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

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  #57  
Old 12-10-2019, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
I LIKE the idea of the 4xD24T cluster.
A REAL kick off the pad. A mix of 2xD24T and 2xD16 SU might be interesting too.


I tend not to mix types, but I agree, an interesting combination. I love clustering . I am trying not to add electronics to this one but it’s tempting to drill a hole for wires and put an altimeter in the upper tube.
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  #58  
Old 01-02-2020, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
I use threaded inserts with no issues. But I think you’d find that a faster curing epoxy makes it simpler. JB Weld is super strong, but for something like this, it means lots of cure time that can cause runs.

I even used threaded inserts on clusters like 3x18mm in a BT-60. A normal threaded insert won’t fit, so I use a clevis from the RC airplane world. I clip off the arms and epoxy in the threaded barrel piece. The engines are held in by a 4-40 cap screw and washer. (Washer not shown in picture).


This was a great tip. I was stalled by the holidays but getting going again. I was staring at the 29mm mount thinking about retention options, including test fitting an Aerotech 29mm screw on retainer, which looked terrible with the vanes. Two of clevises (Clevi?) nestled between the vanes drowned in expoy and retention will be sorted. They are on their way from Great Planes.
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  #59  
Old 01-02-2020, 09:56 PM
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For the 29mm removable mount, the instructions have you use a vane for a spacer, set the rings and mid spacers in place, then apply glue fillets. 11 of the 12 vanes were still in the sheet so I pre-sanded them. I used four vanes, ran beads of glue and quickly slid the parts together to get glue under the joints, and pushed down on the rings to set everything in place, then used a q-tip to fillet the joints. I am using up an old bottle with thick glue where it won’t show.
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  #60  
Old 01-06-2020, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
I use threaded inserts with no issues. But I think you’d find that a faster curing epoxy makes it simpler. JB Weld is super strong, but for something like this, it means lots of cure time that can cause runs.

I even used threaded inserts on clusters like 3x18mm in a BT-60. A normal threaded insert won’t fit, so I use a clevis from the RC airplane world. I clip off the arms and epoxy in the threaded barrel piece. The engines are held in by a 4-40 cap screw and washer. (Washer not shown in picture).


So you happen to have a link for these? The ones I got are not threaded.
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