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  #11  
Old 07-28-2020, 03:49 PM
stefanj stefanj is offline
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I had the plastic version of the Fin Kwik, and it was a mess.


The pintle, or spindle, or whatever you call the post you mounted the model on, was an engine casing. It had to be built up with adhesive paper, which wasn't an exact thing, and the softness of the paper meant you didn't have a positive vertical fit. If that was off, everything was off!

With many years of practice, and the help of tools like the Estes marking guide and a length of metal angle, I can "eyeball" a nearly perfect alignment.
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2020, 03:54 PM
dannymrmissile dannymrmissile is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefanj
I had the plastic version of the Fin Kwik, and it was a mess.


The pintle, or spindle, or whatever you call the post you mounted the model on, was an engine casing. It had to be built up with adhesive paper, which wasn't an exact thing, and the softness of the paper meant you didn't have a positive vertical fit. If that was off, everything was off!

With many years of practice, and the help of tools like the Estes marking guide and a length of metal angle, I can "eyeball" a nearly perfect alignment.

I can relate to this. We all have our own style. I never used the fin guides. Think I tried once, but I’m just faster doing it by eye. In drawing fin lines, I just use a wall molding in the house somewhere. I also mark the Bottom of the tube so I can see exactly where the lines are. This helps Tremendously. Plus I extend the lines a bit beyond the fin tops. Often now, I don’t need lines at all...
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  #13  
Old 07-28-2020, 05:30 PM
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tbzep tbzep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannymrmissile
In drawing fin lines, I just use a wall molding in the house somewhere.
I used to do that until I realized door and window frames aren't always square. When we built our house it was more of the same. Measure once, and if it isn't square, hit it with a bigger hammer until it's close enough! Marking BT's this way wasn't too noticeable unless you built something like a Stiletto or Nike-X with faux upper stage fins, or an LTV Scout with conduits. I use a piece of aluminum angle now. It won't warp like the Estes tube marking guide was upon delivery.
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  #14  
Old 07-28-2020, 06:36 PM
dannymrmissile dannymrmissile is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
I used to do that until I realized door and window frames aren't always square. When we built our house it was more of the same. Measure once, and if it isn't square, hit it with a bigger hammer until it's close enough! Marking BT's this way wasn't too noticeable unless you built something like a Stiletto or Nike-X with faux upper stage fins, or an LTV Scout with conduits. I use a piece of aluminum angle now. It won't warp like the Estes tube marking guide was upon delivery.

Of course when it came to needing longer marks for the length of the tube, I used a true square guide. I made a marker out of 2 legs from an AeroTech Mantis launch pad I have. The moldings I used were always straight. If not,,, I used my Expertise.... !
( worked every time)
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  #15  
Old 07-28-2020, 07:05 PM
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Blushingmule Blushingmule is offline
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I have on of the Estes gray plastic fin jigs.

It's o.k. for flush or nearly flush fins (Astron X-Ray). As many know, when gluing swept/extended fins
it can be a bit wobbly using the stacked motor casings.

Straight lines, carefully eyeballing one fin at a time has been the best so far here.

Bob
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