These are great kits. We use them at the Maker Faire in Detroit in our Build-It-Fly-It sessions. We made a couple minor modifications to the kits which lets the builder finish building the kit and then take it right over to the launch pad to launch it.

Modifications are as follows:

Instead of using the Estes shock cord mount, which has to be glued and needs time to dry, we take a 1 foot piece of kevlar string, tie a small loop in each end, place one loop over the motor hook as the maker attaches it to the motor mount, and tie the rubber shock cord to the loop in the other end, which then gets attached to the nosecone. Voila, no need to wait for white glue to dry.

Second modification is that we, as the builder's helpers use a dot of CA to attach the nosecone base and another dot of CA to attach the launch lug to a fin joint. We use CA accelerator to make these tasks take just seconds, and it's just amazing how many people have never seen accelerator and want to know more about it. The only reason we do this step for the builder is to try to keep the CA out of the hands of our younger builders.

Final modification is to replace the included parachute with a short length of plastic flagging streamer. We do this to keep the Make-It-Take-Its on our very small field (the front lawn of the Henry Ford Museum).

With very little assistance, these kits are completely buildable even by very young builders, and they love the included stickers. These kits fly very reliably so they are great to use where we are launching. The fact that we can have the builder walk directly from the build table to the launch pad to launch is just fantastic.

Entire process, from opening the bag to recovering their launched rocket takes about 20 - 30 minutes, which makes this a perfect activity for events like the Maker Faire.

We've also used Quest Quick Kits in the past with good success but the Make-It-Take-Its are far less expensive. We do use Quest A6-4 motors, though. Same price as the Estes motors when bought in bulk but we really like the Q2G2 igniters for reliability.

All in all, we are huge fans of the Make-It-Take-Its.

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I've found the generic e2x good for scouts. I pre glue the lugs on them and sometimes preassemble the motor mount to save time. They color them with markers and stickers. Build one day fly the next. We also use streamers as the plastic fin cans are pretty durable when they hit the parking lot where the troop meets.

The 13mm Estes rocket bulk packs like the up aerospace ones are horrible for beginners, I cannot believe they still sell them. nothing but frustration from the builders, dads, and myself.

__________________
-Chr$
NAR 79536 TRA 15040 L1
Superstition Spacemodeling Society (SSS) Treasurer
www.sssrocketry.com
SAM 0488
"Prefers Plastic Nose Cones"

What attribute(s), or the lack of same, make the Estes UP Aerospace SpaceLoft kit "horrible for beginners?" With one exception (the looser fit of its fin unit and its forward launch lug/shock cord anchor ring, which is very easily remedied [as I'll describe below]), the UP Aerospace SpaceLoft is no worse a kit for beginners than is the Gnome. Now:

The Gnome has "crack-and-peel" decals that come un-bonded from the body tube after a short length of time (this problem is easily remedied). Also, its lack of a thrust ring (which is easy to make out of rolled paper or from a cut-down spent 13 mm mini motor case, if one doesn't have any thrust rings on hand) facilitates buckling of the body tube at the motor clip slit after a few flights (this doesn't happen to the Ready-To-Fly Puma [an RTF version of the Gnome], which has a thrust ring glued in place just above the motor clip slit)--but the SpaceLoft kit is no worse off in these respects. Also:

Here (see: http://www.rocketreviews.com/estes-...-wentworth.html ) is my EMRR review of the Estes UP Aerospace SpaceLoft kit, in which I've described the kit's minor shortcomings (including the decal adhesion problem) and how they can easily be prevented or corrected. In addition:

Because the fin unit and the forward launch lug/shock cord anchor ring fit more loosely over the body tube than the Gnome's corresponding parts (this was the case for all of the SpaceLoft kits in my 12-kit bulk pack), I applied strips of Avery self-adhesive label paper to the body tube where the fin unit and the forward ring would be located. Both strips are 1.7" (43 mm) long. The fin unit strip is 1.25" (32 mm) in width, while the strip under the forward ring is 0.25" (6 mm) wide. The rear (fin unit) strip of label paper is flush with the rear edge of the body tube, and the forward strip is located so that its forward edge is 8.75” (222 mm) from the rear end of the body tube (which is 1-9/16” [39.7 mm] back from the front end of the body tube). I also added a BT-5 thrust ring. As well:

I do not recommend the 1/2A3-2T for the Estes UP Aerospace SpaceLoft, because with its greater mass, particularly in the clay-weighted nose cone (it was still climbing at a good clip when the 1/2A3-2T ejection charge fired), it came back with a big "Estes dent" in the front edge of its body tube. But on the other recommended motors, its flight was a joy to behold, climbing straight and true, quickly correcting itself (as shown by kinks in its smoke trail) in response to winds aloft--its weighted nose cone and long tail moment arm make it very stable. Plus:

The perfect model rocket kit has yet to be made, and besides, learning to overcome problems resourcefully is part of the Scouting experience. Give the Estes UP Aerospace SpaceLoft kit another chance.

I hope this information will be helpful.

__________________
Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see:
http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511
All of my book proceeds go to the Northcote Heavy Horse Centre www.northcotehorses.com.
NAR #54895 SR

Hi James,

The narrow diameter made it difficult for the younger boys to load the streamer, and if i recall, there were issues with the lug/cord mount. I also don't usually have 13mm motors handy.

Overall for the money, a larger diameter rocket made for a better first experience for everyone. They seemed cheap and unimpressive to the kids.

Overcoming issues is one thing, herding cats for 45 min and trying to get them done is another altogether...

Also, I prefer a kit with no shortcomings, for just a few bucks more. The generic was the ticket. I never mentioned the gnome.

They are pretty durable, however...

__________________
-Chr$
NAR 79536 TRA 15040 L1
Superstition Spacemodeling Society (SSS) Treasurer
www.sssrocketry.com
SAM 0488
"Prefers Plastic Nose Cones"

My manual dexterity at that age wasn't great, but I quickly learned to pack streamers in BT-5 size rockets--if it didn't fit the first time, I re-folded and rolled it--I learned both skill and patience, which were amply rewarded with spectacular flights. My fix for the fin unit's and the forward lug ring's looser fit (applying strips of self-adhesive label paper [cut to the dimensions listed above and in the kit review] to the body tube) provides a strong bond to the body tube, and takes just a few minutes to do. For group flying, mini motors (which are cheaper) are the way to go, which is why many E2X kits use them.

__________________
Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see:
http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511
All of my book proceeds go to the Northcote Heavy Horse Centre www.northcotehorses.com.
NAR #54895 SR