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  #21  
Old 07-10-2021, 01:50 AM
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Even THF won't bite into PLA. I think Methylene Chloride will, but have not tested it. MeCL bites into every plastic known.
THF is some NASTY smelling stuff.
It is the one "commonly available" Organic solvent that I find more irritating in aroma than Methylene Chloride and I HATE the smell of Methylene Chloride.
I find even Nitrobenzene (Old Shoe Polish smell) pleasant compared to those two above.
Even Chloroform (sickeningly sweet), Carbon Tetrachloride (like very old-school dry cleaning solvent), Carbon Disulfide (Hard to describe aroma), and Formaldehyde (Rank, penetrating, pungent, acrid smell) are more pleasant to the nose than THF or MeCL, although all those are far more hazardous from a toxicity standpoint.
During College, I worked in an old-tyme independent pharmacy in the late 80's/early 90's.
We always kept Formaldehyde, Carbon Tetrachloride, Chloroform, CS2, and some other whacky wayyy-old-school solvents on hand as there were still customers that wanted them. I sometimes had to deliver them to locations, but thankfully was not dispensing them from the big containers to the small ones. Back then one could walk into most independent pharmacies and still get Concentrated Nitric and Sulfuric Acids as well. We also stocked Potassium Chlorate, Potassium Permanganate, Ammonium Dichromate, Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Peroxide, and micronized Aluminum to make flash powder too. One could literally, yet amazingly, walk into almost any larger independent pharmacy back then and get all the ingredients to home-brew Nitroglycerine and it was not even tracked. Not so much anymore...
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Last edited by ghrocketman : 07-10-2021 at 02:09 AM.
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  #22  
Old 07-10-2021, 08:51 AM
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From what I remember, the hi build sanded much easier than the 2 in 1 and filled a bit better as well, and the color covered more quickly....

Frank


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
I shot the test fin with (3) coats of the filler primer yesterday. Today I first sanded it with 120 grit and then 320 grit. It FEELS relatively smooth. I'll now shoot it with white regular primer and see what kind of flaws it really has.

BTW, Scott 650 is right: this filler primer is harder to sand than regular primer and it loads up the sandpaper quickly.

TBC
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  #23  
Old 07-10-2021, 04:07 PM
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After shooting it with white primer and then buffing it with steel wool I shot it with Rusto Army Green enamel #214087.

I think the results are acceptable--especially after I top coat it with Testors Dullcote. I'll do that after it stops raining and the humidity drops.

TBC
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  #24  
Old 07-10-2021, 05:19 PM
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Is that a GLOSS Army Olive Green ?
Not sure that reflectivity with that color is legitimate for ANYTHING.
Is that even LEGAL ???
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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  #25  
Old 07-10-2021, 08:15 PM
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I am painting a heavily modified Estes V-2 now, and using the ragged camo pattern scale fins.

Using Tamiya lacquers, these are the paints James Duffy has used on his V-2 kits (Spacemonkey Models). Some have highlights done in airbrushed Tamiya acrylics over spray can lacquer used for larger areas. I have two of his kits, but decided to finish my Estes kit redo before starting on the Spacemonkey kits.

I am using Racing White (its a creamy yellow-white), Light Sand, and Olive Drab.

Here you can see one of the models in ragged camo (scroll down to see):

https://spacemonkey-models.myshopif...scale-v-2-model
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  #26  
Old 07-10-2021, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Is that a GLOSS Army Olive Green ?
Not sure that reflectivity with that color is legitimate for ANYTHING.
Is that even LEGAL ???


Yes, it is gloss. The main reason I like to use it is because decals will lay on it so nicely. Anything I paint with this army green gloss gets shot with Dullcote after the model gets it's decals.
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  #27  
Old 07-11-2021, 09:21 AM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Ahh, ok.
Decals do "grab" gloss better than flat, although I have never really had issues with decals atop flat paint, but I use "Decal Set".
__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !
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  #28  
Old 07-11-2021, 06:18 PM
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If you apply decals to flat paint, the clear areas/edges almost always have a silvery look. I clear gloss flat paint, add decals, and then use matte clear to restore a flat finish.

This Interceptor-E was done that way. (I used a flat aircraft gray as my base color.) No silvery edges to the decals.
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  #29  
Old 07-11-2021, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
If you apply decals to flat paint, the clear areas/edges almost always have a silvery look. I clear gloss flat paint, add decals, and then use matte clear to restore a flat finish.

This Interceptor-E was done that way. (I used a flat aircraft gray as my base color.) No silvery edges to the decals.


Very nice.
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Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

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  #30  
Old 07-11-2021, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
Yes, it is gloss. The main reason I like to use it is because decals will lay on it so nicely. Anything I paint with this army green gloss gets shot with Dullcote after the model gets it's decals.


I like to do that as well for models with lots of decals (which the V2 doesn't) - apply the decals to a gloss finish then clearcoat with flat or satin when I'm done.

It's the technique that Tim VM recommends for the Apogee X-15 kit (which has a lot of decals) - color coat with gloss black, apply decals, then clearcoat with flat. Mine came out beautiful (well, it did until I took it to a launch and a wing got broken in transport ). I think if I build another Apogee X-15, I'll replace the balsa fins/wings with basswood or ply.
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