#11
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Looks good, I really like that model. How are you cloning the plastic parts? |
#12
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I bought a set of Moldin' Oldie parts a few years ago. My set is pretty clean and the parts are almost as light as the original parts. I'd love to do a 4" Interceptor upscale like Tom Beach's.
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Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati |
#13
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I just received my Moldin' Oldies parts. I was pleasantly surprised how good they look, very crisp detail on the NC, only minor lines where the original joint was. Mike noted that he just made new molds for these parts. With Kurts fin guide (thanks!), I'm all set to start building. I'd like to take the load off my original, it is really my favorite modroc to launch. Now, to use fluorescent orange on the pods (like the instructions say), or just regular orange (like my original), that is the question... -Paul |
#14
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I'd say go with REGULAR orange; even the catalogued Interceptors appear to have used regular orange; if you want to follow the printed info, use fluorescent, but if you want it to appear as the catalogue (and look RIGHT), use plain-old Testors Competition Orange.
I have seen both on actual models and think the regular orange looks much better.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC ! |
#15
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Gordon, I think you're talking about the fin patterns and he's talking about the fin position guide to mark the body tube? Anyway, here's a couple of files I found somewhere on the Internet that may be helpful. Mike Fields |
#16
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Ahh, I see...I made an upscale one for...an upscale.
Hey...wait just one minute!!! Just where did you find that fin alignment guide? I drew that! Honest! That is my drawing!
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"I'm a sandman. I've never killed anyone. I terminate runners when their time is up." Logan from "Logan's Run" http://sandmandecals.com/ |
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