#11
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I use CA (so, no warpage), and my paper is just Christmas wrap (CHEAP, and available in many colors). Added advantage: the glider is REALLY strong. Joe |
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Well, I made one of my color choices...
I tested a black Sharpie (King Size), and a red Stanford Magnum 44 permanent marker on some scrap balsa with the black and scarlet RIT Dye samples I have tried.
The Hawk is now Stanford red, and I plan on using Sharpie black for the details I'm thinking seriously about painting the Nighthawk, I saw a photo of a yellow and black version that I'd like to reproduce, however the golden yellow RIT dye isn't bright enough... Perhaps yellow food coloring suspended in 99% alcohol would be worth a scrap of balsa.
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. . Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some). "The Guide says there is an art to flying", said Ford, "or rather a knack." "The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss." Launching is Optional... Landing? That Depends on Trees. |
#13
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The 'wetness' of the alcohol or water would most likely warp your wood where it is thin. I would drop the 'dye' and either use a light spray coating of lacquer or Sharpies. Just forget about using dye altogether is my rec. Allen |
#14
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I agree about the dye - I think that was recommended back when there were no Sharpie Magnums and weight was a very real concern for competition (even a gram or so can make a huge difference when you are trying to get glide times of tens of minutes). Now, most competitors use Sharpies to add some color to the wings for visibilty (black on underside, red on top so you can see it on the ground). I don't know too many people who use dye any more.
For sport flying, a couple of light coats of paint are fine - after all, if you can get it to glide for more than a minute, you're probably going to lose it! Remember that, first and foremost, painting and finishing any rocket, whether it is a BG or any other style, is about pleasing yourself. If YOU like the way it looks, that is the only important thing! Enjoy and have fun!
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Greg Poehlein Member of Launch Crue - http://launchcrue.org/ Hint #1: Do not use magician's flash paper for recovery wadding! Hint #2: Clean your shoes after flyin' in that cow pasture - that ain't no dirt clod on the sole! |
#15
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Painting was recommended for the Fake Wulf and I painted mine in a German camo paint scheme and it flies really well.
That said, most of my gliders have either no paint or just a light dusting of color.
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Bob Harrington NAR #62740 L1 AMA #46042 CMASS & RIMRA Member |
#16
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Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see: http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511 All of my book proceeds go to the Northcote Heavy Horse Centre www.northcotehorses.com. NAR #54895 SR Last edited by blackshire : 08-29-2013 at 04:08 PM. Reason: This ol' hoss done forgot somethin'. |
#17
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Another option (especially for model airplane folks with various types of dope on hand, who might get into model rocketry by way of boost-gliders) could possibly be a variation of the "glider dope" (a 50/50 mixture of clear dope and dope thinner, applied to a boost-glider and sanded with No. 400 sandpaper or sanding film between coats, until the surfaces are very smooth) that G. Harry Stine described in his "Handbook of Model Rocketry." Now: I have not tried this, but maybe glider dope made using *colored* dope and dope thinner (perhaps using, say, 75% colored dope and 25% dope thinner, to preserve the color "density") could also produce good results? (For myself, I'd just use spray paint like you did [particularly lacquer paint, on B/Gs with no plastic parts] because that's what I have on hand, but maybe model airplane folks could get equally good results with glider dope, without having to buy new and [to them] unfamiliar paints.)
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Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see: http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511 All of my book proceeds go to the Northcote Heavy Horse Centre www.northcotehorses.com. NAR #54895 SR Last edited by blackshire : 08-29-2013 at 04:32 PM. Reason: This ol' hoss done had to correct a typo. |
#18
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Hi Jim, If you want your glider to look good I would paint it with dope. you can mix some of the colored dope with the dope type sealer and then sand it real smooth. this will fill the Balsa and add color at the same time. them use colored dope to complete the finish. after the finish is fully dry , I would wax and buff-out to make the surface as slippery as possible. the least amount of dope you use= better flight. Sharpie markers look just OK at best without sealing. they are the finish of choice for competition but they do leave the model with a very spartan finish. here is a picture of a couple of contest gliders we flew a the last BARS monthly launch. Picture: Two fine gliders both of the Stine Design.
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Neal Miller Master Blaster NAR# 58296 |
#19
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I build most of my boost gliders for show. I want people at the launch to say "that was cool!" rather than "Wow, that stayed up forever". It all depends on what you want the outcome to be. I love my 2.4 X RC upscale Mach 10. Its draggy and heavy but it looks cool and unique. It glides for 20 seconds at best, but it looks good doing it. Many competition gliders benefit from the surface drag of raw balsa and it HURTS them to get a pretty finish (even a light one). When I build a model that is supposed to be super light, I will usually do 2 coats of 50/50 thinned out dope, sanding after the first coat. MY theory is that "it won't fill the grain, but it will make it kinda smooth and keep out moisture".
And there you have it... MY opinion on boost gliders . LOVE that Fake Wulf Bob!!!
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Scott NAR #32070 |
#20
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On that note, it sucks but Midwest (formerly Aerogloss) no longer makes colored dope (or to be politically correct) dope of color, anymore .
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Scott NAR #32070 |
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