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  #11  
Old 11-14-2011, 04:46 PM
tbzep's Avatar
tbzep tbzep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyaugo
ESTES could have done a better job with the materials. I had purchased a kit from them with missing parts and warped balsa and wrote them an email using their site and never heard anything back from them? Not sure if my email even went through or they got it and chose to ignore me, but either way I still have a kit that is of no good to me. I paid $35 awhile back on Hobbylinc...and just got around to building it last month or so.. oh well. I think I will pass on their kits.

I hear their new kits are they are coming out with are suppose to be much better...the MPR kits.

A good portion of the "never heard anything back from them" posts are where Estes replied but the email provider or client software flagged it as spam and chunked it in the spam folder.

Check your spam folder if the correspondence was recent. Most spam folders are set to automatically delete after a certain number of days, so it's likely not going to be there if you wrote them more than a few weeks ago.
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  #12  
Old 11-14-2011, 04:49 PM
dyaugo dyaugo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
A good portion of the "never heard anything back from them" posts are where Estes replied but the email provider or client software flagged it as spam and chunked it in the spam folder.

Check your spam folder if the correspondence was recent. Most spam folders are set to automatically delete after a certain number of days, so it's likely not going to be there if you wrote them more than a few weeks ago.


That's what I figured too, but nothing came in from them under my spam folder. I've heard good things about ESTES and I know it probably wasn't intentional. I think maybe if I wrote to someone directly ...their own email then I know I would probably get a response either way.

I just tried again to email them and included the email I received from Hobbylinc confirming my purchase. If I don't hear from them I will call them in a few days.
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  #13  
Old 11-15-2011, 08:43 AM
Scotty Dog Scotty Dog is offline
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Default Spam I am

Yup, most likely some kind of filter wammy jammy and they never got it or whatever. Just last week I contacted them using their SITE contact and didnt get a reply. I just happend to have a different email addy saved in my addy book from an email they sent me on an issue I had with some instructions. I used that addy and got a reply back the same day.
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  #14  
Old 11-15-2011, 09:33 AM
dyaugo dyaugo is offline
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I just heard back from Christine and she said she would mail out the new parts....
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  #15  
Old 11-15-2011, 10:49 AM
dyaugo dyaugo is offline
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You guys may want to check out some build threads from Hornet Driver on TRF...he has so much talent. You should see some of the mods he did to his Interceptors...very impressive!!
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  #16  
Old 12-03-2011, 02:05 AM
electromag.11 electromag.11 is offline
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Default Question about painting an 18mm Interceptor nose cone

I'm building the 18mm Estes Interceptor, and using the finishing techniques I read about in the October issue of Apogee Rockets newsletter (Issue #298).

This is the first time I've attempted a high-quality finish on a model rocket, so I'm a novice at finishing. I've filled the spiral seam with Elmer's Carpenters Wood filler, as well as applying several coats of the wood filler to the balsa fins. I plan to use 4 coats of Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover primer, alternating gray and white primer, and wet sanding between coats (per the suggestions in the Apogee newsletter). I have Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X gloss white paint and gloss clear coat (to avoid mixing different types of paint).

The Interceptor nose cone has many details molded into the nosecone, including recessed areas for the cockpit, which decals will be placed over.

I've never painted a plastic nose cone before, so I'm wondering if it is a good idea to paint the nose cone in similar fashion to the body tube, with 4 coats of primer, gloss white and clear coat. Will the molded details of the nose cone make it difficult to get a high quality finish?

Alternately, I could apply the decals directly to the nose cone, and cover with Rustoleum gloss clear. Applying the decals directly to the unpainted nose cone would be less of a risk, but I'm wondering if the finish would appear different then the rest of the rocket.
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  #17  
Old 12-03-2011, 11:11 AM
raohara raohara is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyaugo
ESTES could have done a better job with the materials. I had purchased a kit from them with missing parts and warped balsa and wrote them an email using their site and never heard anything back from them? Not sure if my email even went through or they got it and chose to ignore me, but either way I still have a kit that is of no good to me. I paid $35 awhile back (Feb 2011) on Hobbylinc...and just got around to building it last month or so.. oh well. I think I will pass on their kits.

I hear their new kits are they are coming out with are suppose to be much better...the MPR kits.

I know in the end Estes came through for you, but did you ever contact Hobbylinc? Do they support what they sell?

- Rich
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2011, 10:02 AM
toejrb toejrb is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Uncoated plastic can look good with enough work. I went with uncoated on the Red Max reissue plastic nosecone, after wet sanding with progressively finer grits, and am happy with how it looks.

FWIW, in doing the Roguepink replica, I basically treated the nose cone like a stand-alone plastic model. I used only two coats of primer (Painter's Touch, as it happens). Too many coats of primer will fill recessed detail like the panel lines and the windshield frame, and then you have to chase the primer out with a scribe if you want the detail to show.

If you're going for a high finish level, you'll want to sand off the mold flashing. IIRC, there were also one or two sections of the molding seam that needed filling. After sanding/filling you'll likely need to rescribe some recessed lines that the sanding obliterates. I did most of this work before any priming, so only hairline defects showed after the first primer coat; none after add'l fine wet sanding and a second primer coat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by electromag.11
I'm building the 18mm Estes Interceptor, and using the finishing techniques I read about in the October issue of Apogee Rockets newsletter (Issue #298).

[snip]

I've never painted a plastic nose cone before, so I'm wondering if it is a good idea to paint the nose cone in similar fashion to the body tube, with 4 coats of primer, gloss white and clear coat. Will the molded details of the nose cone make it difficult to get a high quality finish?

Alternately, I could apply the decals directly to the nose cone, and cover with Rustoleum gloss clear. Applying the decals directly to the unpainted nose cone would be less of a risk, but I'm wondering if the finish would appear different then the rest of the rocket.

Last edited by toejrb : 12-04-2011 at 12:45 PM.
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2011, 10:08 AM
toejrb toejrb is offline
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Good tip, thanks. Hair dryer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
Some of those pearlescent acrylics recommend heating in order to set/cure them on T-shirts. I used heat to cure Createx faster when I used it on a recent model.
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2011, 10:46 AM
electromag.11 electromag.11 is offline
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Thanks for the tip!
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